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Sabato de Sarno hits reset after florid years under Alessandro Michele, with minimalist precision recalling his time at Prada The Gucci catwalk show was not just a new season, it was a factory reset. This was a turn-it-off-and-on-again moment for a brand that had stopped working. With a 15-minute showcase of crisp silhouettes and elegant accessories, seven years of Alessandro Michele ’s exuberant camp were wiped clean. The first look was a long black coat, plain except for Gucci signature red-and-green stripes glimpsed on the back vent mid-stride. Some loafers had a chunky flatform sole, but lots were the classic slim-profile loafer seen in business class airport lounges all over the world but which hasn’t had a catwalk outing for a while. Kitten heels with sparkling chain-back slingbacks made for polished, grownup party shoes. Continue reading... from The Guardian https://ift.tt/8NvJ7A1

Ukrainian president thanks Canada for financial support and says ‘stay with us to our victory’ Volodymyr Zelenskiy has urged Canada to stay with Ukraine to victory as he went to the Canadian Parliament seeking to bolster support from western allies for Ukraine ’s war against the Russian invasion. “Moscow must lose once and for all. And it will lose,” Zelenskiy said during his address in parliament on Friday. Continue reading... from The Guardian https://ift.tt/UOtslxm

From Sarah Bernstein’s absurdist novel to Jonathan Escoffery’s astonishingly assured debut, this year’s novels offered a full range of lived experience and made for an exciting shortlist • Just one British writer makes the Booker prize shortlist Any conversation about what reflects the best of world literature necessarily becomes a referendum on what literature can and should do. As chair of judges for this year’s Booker prize, I think it’s safe to say the conversations between my fellow judges and I were never dull. Adjoa Andoh , Mary-Jean Chan, James Shapiro and Robert Webb and I spoke for hours to decide on our shortlist, always going overtime. What, we asked ourselves, made a book great? Was it extraordinary prose? An uncanny vision? Was it even something definable or some more ineffable quality? The debates were often enthralling: sometimes intimate, sometimes contentious, never short of brilliant. We brought to the task a range of tastes and disciplines, which no doubt shaped

The media tycoon wreaked untold havoc on American democracy and beyond In a chilling scene at the end of James Graham’s play Ink, Rupert Murdoch – having made his indelible mark on British media and society – slows his frenetic pace to ponder the future. He’s thinking, he says almost dreamily, of a venture across the pond – yes, perhaps something in television news. Margaret Sullivan is a Guardian US columnist writing on media, politics and culture Continue reading... from The Guardian https://ift.tt/xG0CmJB

Organized crime groups have about 175,000 members and authors say the best way to reduce violence is to cut membership Organised crime groups in Mexico have about 175,000 members – making them the fifth-biggest employer in the country, according to new research published in the journal Science. Using a decade of data on homicides, missing persons and incarcerations, as well as information about interactions between rival factions, the paper published on Thursday mathematically modeled overall cartel membership, and how levels of violence would respond to a range of policies. Continue reading... from The Guardian https://ift.tt/I2p9xKU

Boiling Point director Philip Barantini brings more clammy tension to a tale of a young man who becomes the target of a witch-hunt after a London bombing For all of the breathless acclaim directed at Chicago-set kitchen drama The Bear, it was Philip Barantini’s Dalston-set equivalent Boiling Point from a year before that truly captured the heat and horror of working in a restaurant. Filmed in one continuous take, it was both technical triumph and masterclass in high-wire suspense, fumbling perhaps in its final overblown moments, but involving enough that by the end, you felt as exhausted as a pot washer ending a busy shift. Before Barantini’s much-anticipated sequel series comes to the BBC later this year, he’s crafted a thriller of much higher stakes, an almost unbearably tense film about the terror of being subjected to a social media witch-hunt. Accused is a smartphone spin on the age-old wrongly accused subgenre and takes place over just one day as a Londoner’s mundane life desc

UK not a serious player in global race for green growth, says Greenpeace, while Oxfam says move is ‘betrayal’ Rishi Sunak announces U-turn on key green targets Scientists and environmental groups have expressed anger and dismay at the U-turn on net zero expected by the prime minister. Continue reading... from The Guardian https://ift.tt/csP1avr